Into a tiger's nest

Built in 1692, Tiger’s Nest Monastery (Taktsang Palphug) is one of Bhutan’s most sacred sites. Perched at the top of a cliff, it stands about 3,000 metres (10,000ft) above sea level.  According to legend, Guru Rinpoche, also known as Padmasambhava and the bringer of Buddhism to Bhutan, flew to this exact spot from Tibet on the back of a tigress. He came to subdue a demon and then took residence in a cave where he meditated for 3 years, 3 months, 3 weeks, 3 days and 3 hours.  The monastery was built around the cave which is still there and open for viewing once a year.

No trip to Bhutan would be complete without a sight of the monastery and so we set off very early one morning.  From the car park, the white buildings of the monastery were just about discernible through the mist.  With no expectation of reaching anywhere near the top but, having been advised that reasonable views could be had at the halfway-ish point, the aim was to try to reach the cafeteria there.  

We eschewed the ponies which were available to carry people two thirds of the way and set off on the steep and at times (too many times) precarious path.  

 With frequent stops for water, a nibble of an energy bar and to catch our breath (hiking at altitude certainly affects the lungs more than the legs), we managed to reach the target of the cafeteria and, despite the lingering mist (and I was so grateful not to have to walk in bright sunlight and overpowering heat), were rewarded with a much better view of the monastery. 

 Of course, the ever present dogs were hanging around the picnic tables, hopeful of a biscuit treat.   And there were puppies!

 I could have quite happily stayed to play with the pups but was encouraged to press on upwards, 'just to see how much further we can get'.  

Eventually, we arrived at the start of the approach to the Tiger’s Nest – a rocky outcrop overlooking a vast chasm, with the monastery on the other side.  There were stone steps (and no handrails) carved into the exposed cliff face heading down into the ravine. Descending via the steps, a waterfall, festooned with prayer flags, came into view with the path continuing directly across it.  Once beyond the waterfall, gruellingly steep steps, over 800 in total, climbed towards the entrance to the monastery.

I'm not sure how it happened but, dear Reader, we made it to the top and in good time, too.   Photography is not allowed inside the monastery where we received a blessing from one of the monks and took a peek inside the original cave, thinking ourselves lucky that we'd picked the day of the year that it's open for viewing.

 The descent was much easier, for me, at least,  and I ended up about twenty minutes ahead of the mister, in the company of three German tourists.  

And, of course, a dog. 

 

In the Land of the Thunder Dragon

 After brief stopovers in Qatar and Thailand, we arrived in the eastern Himalayas for a stay in the tiny landlocked Kingdom of Bhutan.  

 Random stuff 

• The total population numbers about 750,000
• It feels like there are as many street/feral dogs as people.  There are dogs everywhere
• The street dogs are very well fed by restaurants and local people
• The national animal is the Takin, Budorcas taxicolor.  Created, so the story goes, by the Divine Madman who ate a whole goat and a whole cow and then, using the leftover bones,  stuck the goat’s head on the cow’s body and, tadah! – the Takin
• Bhutan is a constitutional monarchy 
• The current king is the country's fifth, referred to as K5
• The current king's dad, K4, married four sisters in the same ceremony
• Bhutan is the world's only officially Buddhist country
• There are monastic orders throughout Bhutan with boys as young as seven, usually from poor families, entering monasteries
• Usually associated with a spartan lifestyle, Bhutan's strand of Buddhism allows monks to own a range of possessions and they are frequently seen using mobile phones and iPads
  
• Most people enjoy eating meat and fish but there are two meat free 'auspicious' months
• Chillies are regarded as a vegetable rather than a seasoning and red patches of drying chillies can be spotted in every village
• The national dish is chillies and cheese
• Bhutan has the world’s highest unclimbed peak, Gangkhar Puensum (7570metres/24,836 feet)
  
• Mountaineering on any peak above 6,000 metres (19,685 feet) is banned
• The cost to visit Bhutan is set very high to discourage influence from outside and to protect  national culture and the environment
• Travelling the country independently is not allowed
• Television and internet access have only been available since 1999
• The national sport is archery.  The target is small which the archers aim at from a distance of 120 metres
• Tall visitors, like the mister, attract attention. 'How high you?'  'He look very good'
• The selling of tobacco is banned
• Bhutan is the only country whose largest export is renewable energy (hydroelectric power)
• Progress and the success of governmental strategy and policy is measured by happiness – Gross National Happiness rather than GDP
• Thimphu is the only capital in the world with no traffic lights
• Every Tuesday is dry day and alcohol sales are forbidden
• As part of the effort to preserve its culture, citizens are required to wear national dress in public, men wearing something resembling a knee length dressing gown with long socks, and women a full length skirt and short jacket 
• About two thirds of the population work in agriculture, the majority as subsistence farmers, and the aim is to be the first organic country
• One of the largest statues of Buddha in the world is being constructed on a hillside overlooking the capital, Thimphu