'It's just that there are some things women don't do. They don't become Pope or President or go down to the Antarctic'.
Harry Darlington, chief pilot on Finn Ronne's 1946-8 Antarctic Research Expedition
So. Onward towards Antarctica, the highlight of the trip. Waking up to glorious weather and a very different landscape. Sailing past icebergs larger than the ship, crawling with ants which turned into penguins when viewed through a lens.
Just off the Antarctic peninusula is Deception Island, an active volcano. Another early morning landing by zodiac at Telefon Bay and a welcome committee of a perky Chinstrap penguin or five and a basking fur seal. Then a tricky hike up a steep hill of volcanic ash to view one of the craters.
In the afternoon, a landing on a cobbled beach at Half Moon Island. Once the haunt of sealers, now home to a colony of Chinstraps high up on a rocky outcrop, a lonesome Gentoo and the Argentine summer research station Camara with its giveaway national flag on the roof.
Next stop: the Antarctic continent.
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